Day 42 A long day

Today we started with an hotel breakfast, thankfully. We had our fill if fruit, cereal, bread with meat & cheese, coffee and chocolate bread.

After loading up it was off through the old town again to pick up the ca Al route to the EV15.

Along the way we met up with an angry Swiss German, angry at the maps and signage, not at us. As we have found out the signs show small villages that we can not see on Google maps while browsing. He however was using printed maps which helped even less.

After listening to him rant for 10 minutes we left him to it.

The ride into Strasburg was long straight and flat.

As we approached the city the sound of the traffic increased. It’s surprising how you get used to the peace while on the remote paths snd then hate the noise of traffic.

At one point two drivers tried to run us off the road as we were not as quick crossing the road as they thought we should be.

We tried booking a hotel in Strasburg a Kobo but booking had run out of the offer. Jo rang ahead and was told they had plenty of room. So we navigated our route to it.

The hotel was in a modern building and the reception was on the first floor, the entrance to the stairs was locked so the only way up was via a lift. No hotel for us.

We decided to give the city a miss and head off to a campsite.

Another 7kms we arrived at the campground to see a notice saying it was complete ie full.

We waited in turn hoping they could fit us in. Finally we are served, yes there was space near to a school camp. We weren’t going anywhere else so gladly accepted it.

The campground had a restaurant so no cooking tonight, just as well as we have no food..

Day 32 – The first all wet say.

Having gone to bed with a beautiful clear blue sky I was woken at 4.00 by the sound of rain on the tent.

Dam now I need to pee. The rain eased after 10 mins and I made my dash to the toilet and back.

A few minutes later the rain came down heavier, then heavier and then even heavier. The wind increased and then boom. Thunder rattled around outside. At least I was tucked up warm in my sleeping bag.

The rain finally stopped at around 6.00.

As usual we are the last of the cyclists to leave, but the tent did get a chance to dry out a bit before being packed away. The down side was it started to rain just as we were leaving. Not much, but it was still rain.

To get to the quiet canal route we first had to negotiate the town traffic. Most of the time there is no real problem, but today was no ordinary day.

It started near the town centre. There appeared to be a car stopped waiting for a carpark. The car behind suddenly reversed as I was preparing to go round them. We then had to stop at a junction. Jo took off but I wasn’t sure if I could get across before the approaching car, so I didn’t move. The driver behind us must have seen Jo move and they then moved forward stopping with a joint meer inches from my back wheel after I had shouted at them.

After that near miss it was time for a coffee.

Then it was into main road traffic. I led the way. My trust was then restored in French drivers. We had to make a left hand turn ie a room the traffic. I saw a car behind Jo about to make his move past her, but when he saw me ahead signaling to turn he held back to let Jo follow me. You wouldn’t get that in NZ or even the UK.

After that it was canal paths and quiet roads. We set a cracking pace for us as we tried to stay ahead of the rain. There was a slight drizzle at times, but nothing to really worry about.

We finally stopped for our pain o raisin at 12.45 and the rain finally caught us.

It was only light so no need for us to take shelter.

The second half of today’s ride was over rolling hills so some ups and downs. The downs are always good, but usually mean an uphill is to follow.

After one demanding uphill that we both ended up pushing our bikes we came up to a main road. With big trucks going but a d damp roads and brakes we were not prepared to risk it. So it was out with Google to find an alternative. This entailed a nice free wheel down the hill we’d just pushed our bikes up. A km along our revised route we again picked up the EV6 signs. Either there was sign missing or we both missed it.

Day 28 – Chantillon-sur-Loire to Sancerre

We departed after out typical French breakfast. No eggs, bacon and fried bread, nor fruit and cereal, just bread, jam, coffee and croissants. Although our coffee came in a large cup and not a bowl.

Again another flat day of riding, well mainly flat. The trail varied from following canal paths, along the Loire levees and quiet country roads. The canal paths run alongside the canal lateral de Loire.

There were a few uphill section which we are now able to ride up instead of having to get off and push our bikes up.

We passed close to another atomic power station today, the closest so far.

It has been threatening to rain all day so we decided to take a mobile home this evening. A good call as it started raining shortly after we arrived and has rained on and off all evening.

Day 27

We always seem to take longer packing up when we are not camping in a tent.

I think the problem is that we tend to spread and in a tent there is no room to spread.

Since leaving Orlean the towns and villages have been smaller with less elaborate chateaus. The ones we pass now are not much more that glorified farms.

The trail yet again is fairly flat. We were both startled this morning as two deer who were quietly grazing in the field beside us decided we were a threat to them. They both took off in different directions, one crossing the trail just in front of us, the other racing across the wheat field.

Jo was concerned that we had separated both of them, but in fact their instincts kicked in. The best bet for survival was to separate and possibly confuse their attacker. Hopefully at least one of them, if not both, would survive as the attacker tried to decide which way to go.

The highlight of the day however was crossing the Briare canal bridge. This bridge carrying the canal was built by the Eiffel company and once was the longest iron canal bridge in the world.

We arrived at the campground for tonight about 3.00 but the office wasn’t open until 5.00. We took a look around and weren’t very impressed with it. We took shelter as it started to rain. The rain became a downpour and with the waiting around We checked to see if there was any other accommodation available nearby.

A chamber d’hote 5 minutes away convinced us the ride in the rain would be worth the effort. So off we went and had a dry night in a quirky bedroom, with sloping floors, giant roof beams and shuttered windows.

Day 25 Orleans to Sully-sur-Loire

Today we are planning to up the mileage a bit as we have been dawdling along most days.

We had decided not to go into the old town on the way out, but we saw an impressive church and we’re drawn to it.

30 minutes later and we were on our way again along the bank of the Loire.

But we were soon querying the route as we should have crossed the river, but the directions were pointing the opposite way.  Was this an alternative route and where should we have crossed.

On checking our maps, Google and Garmin we realised that the signs are pointing us up a path leading to the bridge across the river we had just ridden under.

All is good with the signs.

Most of the say is spent riding along the levee, if this had been Holland it would be a Dyke and we would have been bikes on dykes again.

Day 24 to Orleans

The celebrations last night finished at 11.15 so not too late getting to sleep. We put our tarp as a cover to the tent which again helped keeping the tent dry, although it didn’t rain as hard as the previous two nights.

Our first stop was just up the road to get breakfast.

Then most of the day was fairly flat riding again.

We passed so beautifully scenery, including an atomic power station. I think perhaps only the French can build such an ugly and possibly dangerous building in an area of such beauty.

We also passed more chataux and monasteries.

We arrived at Orleans just as it started to rain. It was either good timing or just good luck.

After a shower and rest we went into town too have a look around.

There were some ugly tower blocks on the outskirts but in town there was a mixture of old and new. Orleans wasn’t the best town we’ve visited, but there again it wasn’t the worst either.

We stopped to have some chicken and chips before heading back to the hotel. We had only taken a few steps before the rain started. By the time we got back the rain was quite heavy and we were soaked through . So much for going out without the umbrella.

Day 23 – It started with a bang.

Today started with a bang and flash at about 1.00 as we encountered our second thunder storm un two days.

I watched the tent light up and a few seconds later came the bang of the thunder.

If not overhead then the storm was only 1km to our left. Another flash and bang now it’s a km to our right.

I’m not too sure how long it lasted except to say Jo had time to video some of it and then read her book.

I closed my eyes and went to sleep with the sound of thunder.

Luckily we had put our tarp on er the tent last night as a storm had been forecast. The tent wasn’t too wet and with quick wipe down was ready to pack up after coffee and breakfast.

Today was again a fairly flat ride except for the hills we pushed our bikes up.

Today we passed the Chataux of Menars which was supposedly given to madame Pompadour by King Louis xv.

Being the summer solstice the French are celebrating with a part and there’s a band playing in the next field. So it seems today will also end with a bang.

We ended up stopping at Muides sur Loire.

7

Day 21 – Tours to Aboise

Today we were going to have a late start as we didn’t have to checkout until midday. However we were on the road by 9.30.

It was a bit cooler to start off with, but the temperature was on the way up.

Today’s ride followed the river most if the way so was fairly flat and easy going.

Being Sunday the shops were closed so we would have to find somewhere for lunch today.

Right on cue when we both feeling hungry we came into a small town with both a restaurant and a patisserie open. We chose the patisserie for flans and apple juice.

While we were eating I spied a woman with some bread, I asked where she had purched it. She told us that the shop was down the road opposite the church.

If only we’d known before.  But we also made a stop there to purchase a second lunch.

Having done little research about the area we were both surprised and in awe of the Chataux that appeared as we entered Aboise.

Our campground was situated on an island in the middle of the Loire. As it looked like a storm was due we booked in at the camps restaurant for dinner. Before taking a walk around the town.

As we sat eating the first of the rain came down, ee squeezed the tables together to ensure Jo didn’t get wet.

We timed our meal just right, as by the time we’d finished so did the rain.

We got back to our camp site in the dry but thunder was rattling all around us.

It was not long before the rain restarted and a full on thunder and lightning stormed passed right over us.

I had disappeared into the tent and enjoyed the show from there, while Jo sat under our tarp watching.

The storm lasted nearly two hours and it was well after 11 before we settled down for the night.

Day 20 – Tour of Tours

We started our tour of Tours at 8.30 and it is getting quite warm already.

Our first port of call is the Cathedral which is situated at the end of the original road from Paris and would have been an impressive sight in the 16th century. Come to think of it it’s an impressive sight in the 21st century. I’m not too sure I would employ the builders to build my house as it took them 400 years to complete the work.

Next on the list is the Basilica of St Martin. This is one of the renowned local architect Victor Laloux designs. The current building was completed in 1924.

The original Basilica dating back to the 5th century was completely destroyed and all signs if it erased during the French Revolution. The site being rediscovered in 1860.

Then it was off to discover two more of Victor Laloux’s creations, the Hotel de Ville and the Gare.

On the way to the Hotel de Ville we stopped off at a market and bought a casual top each for going out. Something smart but cool to wear in this heat. I know more stuff to carry.

The Gare de Tours is another fine example of Victor Laloux work. The railway was first established at the end of the 19th century and helped with the revival of Tours.

While outside the station taking pictures Jo was approached by a begger, she was quite aggressive and right in Jo’s face. Whichever way Jo moved she made sure she was right there almost threatening her. Eventually Jo saw me and called out. The woman remained there as I approached them I shouted out at the woman and went to Jo’s side. The look the woman gave Jo was even more worrisome than her actions. Jo was visibly shaking as we made for the security of the station.

After that episode we made our way back to the hotel. The morning was over and the temperature was starting to soar.

Day 19 Savonnieres to Tours

Not such an early start today, as only a short ride into Tours.

Again the route was mainly flat through fields of wheat or sometimes fields of sunflowers, woods or beside the river.

We did stop at a water mill with a unique system to raise or lower the water wheel so it could be used no matter what the level of the river was.

We arrived at the hotel too early, but it was too hot to wander around town. We deposited the bikes into safe keeping g of the hotel and then deposited ourselves in the entrance lounge.

Despite being told check-in wasn’t until 3.00 we were given our room keys at 1.30. I think we might have been making the reception look untidy and they wanted us out of the way.

We ventured out for dinner at 6.30 but it was still too hot as we tried to choose a restaurant.

We finally sat down at around 7.00 still not really feeling hungry but now had to order.

Unfortunately we couldn’t wait longer as we were both hungry, not having much lunch, and we both miss chose our meals.

Perhaps tomorrow we’ll do better.