Day 50 Trains, Planes and boats

Today is a rest day in Bacharac. Sat watching the boats passing by on the Rhine.

Found some shade and also watching g the trains om the opposite bank as they take their goods and passengers from here to there.

Some boats are struggling with the current as they crawl up the river, others glid effortlessly down towards the ocean.

Where do planes come in. Well only. Our way in to have a look around Bacharac we heard the screen of a fighter jet. We turned around to see it disappearing at low level up the Rhine. If only we had left camp 15 mins later we would have had a grandstand view of it.

Day 47

A first for us today, we’re up and off by 8.30. We are leaving g a nice basic campground with swimming lake early as we have a hotel booked for tonight and a few kms to ride. The plan is to get there early so Jo can do some editing.

The ride is pleasant and flat, making for good progress. That is until we get to have a choice on routes.

We decide to bypass Mannheim and head to Worms. The EV15 has routes both ways.

On a particularly nice at straight besides the railway things start to go wrong.

At this stage the wind is behind us, a warning sign in itself, as we’ve always had a headwind.

After going g u der a road bridge we are both distracted by a large factory, both missing the turn off.

This little error cost us at least 6 kms extra riding. Not as bad as I first thought, thinking we had gone at least 10 kms off route.

Back on the trail it was again flat riding along side the dykes protecting the farms from the Rhine.

Near to our destination we turned to the Garmin for assistance and at the 6km to go mark it directed us to town on a signposted but not ev15 road. That was mistake 2 for the day. This way turned into a dirt track and added at keast another 2km to the route.

Doing back we finally made our way to our pre-booked Hotel, hot, tired and exhausted right in the middle of dinner service. Not the best time to check in.

But all ended well and we ended up cycling 101kms for the day

Oh on the way we passed this cool transport museum at Spyers but didn’t have time to look around.

Day 42 A long day

Today we started with an hotel breakfast, thankfully. We had our fill if fruit, cereal, bread with meat & cheese, coffee and chocolate bread.

After loading up it was off through the old town again to pick up the ca Al route to the EV15.

Along the way we met up with an angry Swiss German, angry at the maps and signage, not at us. As we have found out the signs show small villages that we can not see on Google maps while browsing. He however was using printed maps which helped even less.

After listening to him rant for 10 minutes we left him to it.

The ride into Strasburg was long straight and flat.

As we approached the city the sound of the traffic increased. It’s surprising how you get used to the peace while on the remote paths snd then hate the noise of traffic.

At one point two drivers tried to run us off the road as we were not as quick crossing the road as they thought we should be.

We tried booking a hotel in Strasburg a Kobo but booking had run out of the offer. Jo rang ahead and was told they had plenty of room. So we navigated our route to it.

The hotel was in a modern building and the reception was on the first floor, the entrance to the stairs was locked so the only way up was via a lift. No hotel for us.

We decided to give the city a miss and head off to a campsite.

Another 7kms we arrived at the campground to see a notice saying it was complete ie full.

We waited in turn hoping they could fit us in. Finally we are served, yes there was space near to a school camp. We weren’t going anywhere else so gladly accepted it.

The campground had a restaurant so no cooking tonight, just as well as we have no food..

Day 28 – Chantillon-sur-Loire to Sancerre

We departed after out typical French breakfast. No eggs, bacon and fried bread, nor fruit and cereal, just bread, jam, coffee and croissants. Although our coffee came in a large cup and not a bowl.

Again another flat day of riding, well mainly flat. The trail varied from following canal paths, along the Loire levees and quiet country roads. The canal paths run alongside the canal lateral de Loire.

There were a few uphill section which we are now able to ride up instead of having to get off and push our bikes up.

We passed close to another atomic power station today, the closest so far.

It has been threatening to rain all day so we decided to take a mobile home this evening. A good call as it started raining shortly after we arrived and has rained on and off all evening.

Day 27

We always seem to take longer packing up when we are not camping in a tent.

I think the problem is that we tend to spread and in a tent there is no room to spread.

Since leaving Orlean the towns and villages have been smaller with less elaborate chateaus. The ones we pass now are not much more that glorified farms.

The trail yet again is fairly flat. We were both startled this morning as two deer who were quietly grazing in the field beside us decided we were a threat to them. They both took off in different directions, one crossing the trail just in front of us, the other racing across the wheat field.

Jo was concerned that we had separated both of them, but in fact their instincts kicked in. The best bet for survival was to separate and possibly confuse their attacker. Hopefully at least one of them, if not both, would survive as the attacker tried to decide which way to go.

The highlight of the day however was crossing the Briare canal bridge. This bridge carrying the canal was built by the Eiffel company and once was the longest iron canal bridge in the world.

We arrived at the campground for tonight about 3.00 but the office wasn’t open until 5.00. We took a look around and weren’t very impressed with it. We took shelter as it started to rain. The rain became a downpour and with the waiting around We checked to see if there was any other accommodation available nearby.

A chamber d’hote 5 minutes away convinced us the ride in the rain would be worth the effort. So off we went and had a dry night in a quirky bedroom, with sloping floors, giant roof beams and shuttered windows.

Day 25 Orleans to Sully-sur-Loire

Today we are planning to up the mileage a bit as we have been dawdling along most days.

We had decided not to go into the old town on the way out, but we saw an impressive church and we’re drawn to it.

30 minutes later and we were on our way again along the bank of the Loire.

But we were soon querying the route as we should have crossed the river, but the directions were pointing the opposite way.  Was this an alternative route and where should we have crossed.

On checking our maps, Google and Garmin we realised that the signs are pointing us up a path leading to the bridge across the river we had just ridden under.

All is good with the signs.

Most of the say is spent riding along the levee, if this had been Holland it would be a Dyke and we would have been bikes on dykes again.

Day 24 to Orleans

The celebrations last night finished at 11.15 so not too late getting to sleep. We put our tarp as a cover to the tent which again helped keeping the tent dry, although it didn’t rain as hard as the previous two nights.

Our first stop was just up the road to get breakfast.

Then most of the day was fairly flat riding again.

We passed so beautifully scenery, including an atomic power station. I think perhaps only the French can build such an ugly and possibly dangerous building in an area of such beauty.

We also passed more chataux and monasteries.

We arrived at Orleans just as it started to rain. It was either good timing or just good luck.

After a shower and rest we went into town too have a look around.

There were some ugly tower blocks on the outskirts but in town there was a mixture of old and new. Orleans wasn’t the best town we’ve visited, but there again it wasn’t the worst either.

We stopped to have some chicken and chips before heading back to the hotel. We had only taken a few steps before the rain started. By the time we got back the rain was quite heavy and we were soaked through . So much for going out without the umbrella.

Day 23 – It started with a bang.

Today started with a bang and flash at about 1.00 as we encountered our second thunder storm un two days.

I watched the tent light up and a few seconds later came the bang of the thunder.

If not overhead then the storm was only 1km to our left. Another flash and bang now it’s a km to our right.

I’m not too sure how long it lasted except to say Jo had time to video some of it and then read her book.

I closed my eyes and went to sleep with the sound of thunder.

Luckily we had put our tarp on er the tent last night as a storm had been forecast. The tent wasn’t too wet and with quick wipe down was ready to pack up after coffee and breakfast.

Today was again a fairly flat ride except for the hills we pushed our bikes up.

Today we passed the Chataux of Menars which was supposedly given to madame Pompadour by King Louis xv.

Being the summer solstice the French are celebrating with a part and there’s a band playing in the next field. So it seems today will also end with a bang.

We ended up stopping at Muides sur Loire.

7

Day 21 – Tours to Aboise

Today we were going to have a late start as we didn’t have to checkout until midday. However we were on the road by 9.30.

It was a bit cooler to start off with, but the temperature was on the way up.

Today’s ride followed the river most if the way so was fairly flat and easy going.

Being Sunday the shops were closed so we would have to find somewhere for lunch today.

Right on cue when we both feeling hungry we came into a small town with both a restaurant and a patisserie open. We chose the patisserie for flans and apple juice.

While we were eating I spied a woman with some bread, I asked where she had purched it. She told us that the shop was down the road opposite the church.

If only we’d known before.  But we also made a stop there to purchase a second lunch.

Having done little research about the area we were both surprised and in awe of the Chataux that appeared as we entered Aboise.

Our campground was situated on an island in the middle of the Loire. As it looked like a storm was due we booked in at the camps restaurant for dinner. Before taking a walk around the town.

As we sat eating the first of the rain came down, ee squeezed the tables together to ensure Jo didn’t get wet.

We timed our meal just right, as by the time we’d finished so did the rain.

We got back to our camp site in the dry but thunder was rattling all around us.

It was not long before the rain restarted and a full on thunder and lightning stormed passed right over us.

I had disappeared into the tent and enjoyed the show from there, while Jo sat under our tarp watching.

The storm lasted nearly two hours and it was well after 11 before we settled down for the night.

Day 20 – Tour of Tours

We started our tour of Tours at 8.30 and it is getting quite warm already.

Our first port of call is the Cathedral which is situated at the end of the original road from Paris and would have been an impressive sight in the 16th century. Come to think of it it’s an impressive sight in the 21st century. I’m not too sure I would employ the builders to build my house as it took them 400 years to complete the work.

Next on the list is the Basilica of St Martin. This is one of the renowned local architect Victor Laloux designs. The current building was completed in 1924.

The original Basilica dating back to the 5th century was completely destroyed and all signs if it erased during the French Revolution. The site being rediscovered in 1860.

Then it was off to discover two more of Victor Laloux’s creations, the Hotel de Ville and the Gare.

On the way to the Hotel de Ville we stopped off at a market and bought a casual top each for going out. Something smart but cool to wear in this heat. I know more stuff to carry.

The Gare de Tours is another fine example of Victor Laloux work. The railway was first established at the end of the 19th century and helped with the revival of Tours.

While outside the station taking pictures Jo was approached by a begger, she was quite aggressive and right in Jo’s face. Whichever way Jo moved she made sure she was right there almost threatening her. Eventually Jo saw me and called out. The woman remained there as I approached them I shouted out at the woman and went to Jo’s side. The look the woman gave Jo was even more worrisome than her actions. Jo was visibly shaking as we made for the security of the station.

After that episode we made our way back to the hotel. The morning was over and the temperature was starting to soar.